History of Lipstick Regulation in America 1930s and 1940s (5)
In this post I’m going to talk about lipstick regulation in America during the 1930s and 1940s.
In case you missed my introductory blog post, you can read it here where I explain what I’m pursuing in this blog. This blog post is the fifth part of the history of lipstick regulation series. You can read the first blog post here, the second blog post here, the third blog post here, the fourth blog post here, and the article referenced can be found here.
1930s
The 1930s witnessed a significant shift in the regulatory environment surrounding lipstick. With the emergence of new lipstick products and an increasing number of consumers, safety regulations became a paramount concern. During this decade, conventional products like lip liner and allegedly sun-protectant lipstick were introduced. Manufacturers also developed new lipstick variations, including shinier finishes, heavily perfumed lipsticks, and multi-function lipstick cases. These developments gained mass enthusiasm, with lipstick being hailed as a defining item of the twentieth century. Surveys showed that a significant percentage of households owned at least one tube of lipstick.
This proliferation of lipstick products led to an explosion of safety regulations at both the federal and state levels. Influential politicians, including President Franklin D. Roosevelt and Senator Royal S. Copeland, played crucial roles in advocating for cosmetics regulation. Copeland’s efforts to regulate cosmetics began after learning about the harmful effects of a depilatory cream containing thallium acetate. He introduced multiple bills to strengthen the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906, with the aim of establishing more stringent regulations for food, drugs, and cosmetics. Despite facing initial resistance and several revisions, a bill finally passed in 1938 and became known as the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.
While the Act did not specifically focus on lipstick, it significantly impacted its safety through provisions that prohibited the use of poisonous or deleterious substances in cosmetics and regulated cosmetics labeling to prevent false or misleading claims. These provisions took immediate effect and marked a milestone in cosmetics regulation.
Women’s lobbying played a vital role throughout the regulatory process, with an expanding coalition of women’s interest groups advocating for stronger regulations. In contrast, manufacturers did not actively lobby against the regulations, which contributed to the successful passage of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.
1940s
In the midst of World War II, the American lipstick industry experienced remarkable growth and sophistication. Lipstick producers seized the opportunity to market their products as not just a frivolous luxury but as a vital part of the war effort. Lipstick became a symbol of resilience and femininity, boosting the morale of both women wearing it and the male soldiers who admired them. With clever marketing strategies and the introduction of new and improved lipstick varieties, American women embraced lipstick like never before.
Leading lipstick manufacturers launched campaigns that portrayed lipstick as an instrument of personal morale and patriotism. Tangee, one of the prominent companies of the time, initiated a “War, Women, and Lipstick” campaign, urging women to view lipstick as a patriotic symbol. Commissioned studies emphasized the effectiveness of makeup in boosting morale, leading to the stocking of lipstick in factory dressing rooms to enhance female workers’ efficiency. Even the Marines had an official “Montezuma Red” lipstick, matching the trim on women’s hats.
In addition to promoting lipstick generally, manufacturers began marketing specific brands to cater to different types of women. For instance, Maybelline targeted “not too intelligent girls,” Revlon aimed at “tarts,” and Cover Girl positioned itself as a brand for “nice girls.” These marketing strategies proved successful, driving high consumption levels among women seeking novelty and escapism during troubled times.
Despite being made mostly by hand, lipstick production advanced during the 1940s. Improved machines could produce larger batches, although the process was still relatively limited. The war necessitated the replacement of metal cases with plastic and paper ones. Lipstick designs became more elaborate, with some lipsticks disguised as objects like binoculars and equipped with accessories such as emergency flashlights. Max Factor introduced the first long-lasting lipstick, and Goya innovated with the first lip liner.
To entice buyers seeking escapism from the somber wartime atmosphere, lipstick packaging became more playful. Lipsticks opened in novel ways, like Clairol’s patented switchblade-like design. Manufacturers introduced lipsticks with playful names, adding to the allure. Elizabeth Arden capitalized on the emphasis on color and novelty packaging by offering matching lipstick and nail polish sets. As a result, lipstick consumption soared, with Americans spending millions of dollars on lipstick each year, and 90% of American women wearing it.
While safety improvements occurred due to the recently implemented Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, few new regulations specifically targeting lipstick emerged during the war and its aftermath. However, the United States stood in stark contrast to Europe, where England implemented limitations on cosmetic production to conserve materials for the war effort. Hitler even banned lipstick in Germany, but women’s resistance forced a reversal of the law.
The 1940s marked a period of significant growth and sophistication in American lipstick production and consumption. Lipstick became intertwined with the war effort, symbolizing resilience and boosting morale. Clever marketing strategies and advancements in production techniques contributed to increased consumption. With minimal regulations, the American lipstick industry thrived, while European countries faced restrictions. Lipstick emerged as a symbol of feminine empowerment and an essential part of women’s lives during challenging times.